I thought my gas gauge was working correctly after it switched over from zero miles remaining to a full tank reading. All was well with the world until about 150 miles later it went to about 1/4 tank and at 200 miles it went into it’s low fuel count down. I went ahead and filled the tank and it took 5 gallons. This got me wondering if the suck pump wasn’t working or the gas gauge was just wacky. After a little digging on the web I think I found out what is going on. There are a number of threads on the Adventure Rider forum on the topic. Someone even threatened to send BMW the cork out of their lawn mower gas tank to show them how a real gas gauge was designed
. I guess my first guess about the computer being confused is probably not far off the mark.
Apparently the gas gauge feature is self calibrating. The web wisdom says that two tanks of fuel have to be used from a full tank to almost empty and then the gas gauge will be calibrated to the volume of the new tank. Unfortunately I will not be able to accomplish this before I leave for Palm Springs, CA. next Friday. I will just have to keep track of my mileage until I can make sure it represents something that looks a little more like reality.
The weather forecast isn’t looking real good for getting through the Siskiyous so I might be taking the slow route down US 101. If I have to swing over to the coast at Corvallis it may kill my SS1000/BB1500 plans
unless the weather is more favorable on my trip back home. I can probably squeeze a SS1000 in from Palm Springs back to Northern California and a BB1500 may still be doable. I won’t know until I try.
Filed under Diary by
One of the first things I changed on my R1200GS is the saddle. For me the stock saddle was literally a pain in the A
. Rich O’Connor, of Rich’s Custom Seats, had already reworked my K1200LT saddle and it was a great improvement to a saddle that wasn’t that bad to begin with. When I took my R1200GS in I was also looking for something other than a simple black saddle. I wasn’t sure exactly what I wanted but I had a couple of ideas. I told Rich I was looking to have the saddle colors flow from the yellow and silver coloring of the gas tank. I also wanted vinyl rather than leather to reduce the upkeep a little. He initially didn’t think he had a yellow vinyl that would work but then he remembered some special order material he had from a custom car project. He brought it out and I wasn’t initially sure it was going to look that good. He brought out the silver vinyl he had in mind and he said he thought it would look great. Of course Rich was right and the results speak for themselves. I also had him add a seat heater which I wired up during my major mod session. I joked with Rich at the time that he had certainly pimped my ride
. He also re-covered my Bakup back rest to match the saddle.
When I took the GS in to have the saddle done I did not yet have the Micatech side cases shown in the pictures. After installing them I discovered that the left side case rubbed the corner of the saddle. Yesterday after work I needed to go to Ride West BMW to pick up a pair of Gerbing heated socks. Rich’s shop is just a short distance away so I thought I would drop by there first and set up an appointment to fix the saddle.
I showed up about 4:00 PM and I asked Rich to look at my saddle. I told him there was not a workmanship issue because it was my fault for having the saddle done before I put on my side cases. He took all of 5 seconds looking at it and said to bring the bike into the shop. I must have had a funny look on my face because he followed up with "It will only take a few minutes, it’s a quick fix.". It took about 30 minutes and he refused to take any money from me. He said "It’s part of the gig." Customer satisfactions is demonstrably Rich’s number one priority.
Here are a couple more pictures.
I have already done some rides locally and even a little off road dual sport action with the re-worked saddle. The difference is like night and day. Throw a sheepskin butt pad on and this is now an all day long riding machine.
I thought I would slip in a picture or two with all the mods installed.
This picture shows the notch I needed to cut out to accommodate the Hella Micro DE mounts. This also shows the bracket I made to move the lights forward four inches.
It’s getting late so th-th-th-That’s all folks.
Filed under Diary by
I think I have arrived at the point where I can spend more time riding it than planning or installing modifications
. In fact I am planning to ride to the Palm Springs area over my Christmas/New Years break to visit my folks. I have routes planned for SS1000s or BB1500s in both directions. Of course that assumes the weather and road conditions will cooperate. With the exception of the Hella Micro DE lights and the Touratech Sump Guard, both of which were on the bike when I bought it, the following is the list of accessories I have added over the last year.
Description |
Source |
| Enhanced Protection Windshield (Windshield and Wind Wings System) – Clear -22in Tall x 20in Wide – with Headlight Guard Combo | Cee Bailey |
| McCruise Cruise Control | McCruise |
| Rich’s Custom Saddle with Seat Heater |
Rich’s Custom Leather |
| Bakup Back Rest (Recovered by Rich’s) |
Bakup |
| LeoVince SBK Header Pipes | LeoVince |
| Hyperpro 3D Shocks | EPM Performance |
| Garmin Zumo 550 | Garmin |
| Autocom Active Plus | Autocom |
| Pilot Cases (Black Case/Silver Door) |
Micatech |
| Pilot Liner Bags | Micatech |
| Verholen Front Splash Guards | A&S BMW |
| Verholen Steel Cylinder Protection | A&S BMW |
| Hornig Adjustable Folding Shift Lever |
A&S BMW |
| Luggage Rack Low | Touratech |
| Luggage Rack instead of Pillion Seat | Touratech |
| Hella Micro DE HID Driving Light | Touratech |
| Hella Micro DE Halogen Fog Light | Touratech |
| Aluminum Sump Guard | Touratech |
| Engine Guard Extension | Touratech |
| Handlebar Bracket PDA Large | Touratech |
| Hard Part Fork Protectors | Touratech |
| Rear Brake Lever Extension | Touratech |
| Barkbusters BHG32 Handgaurds | Barkbusters |
| Handlebar Cross Bar – 290mm | Touratech |
| TPS 15 CAN Bus Output Helper | Touratech |
| Side Stand Extension Plate | Touratech |
| MvG Locking Mount for Garmin Zumo | Touratech |
| Ortlieb Rack Pack XL – Yellow | Ortlieb |
| R1200GS SprayStopper | BestRest |
| Formotion Classic Luminova Thermometer | Formotion |
| AWS Handlebar Risers 65mm | Adventurers Workshop |
| Fastway Evo footpegs F3 | Adventurers Workshop |
| Excell Cycle R1200GS Exhaust Extension | Adventurers Workshop |
| Excel Stebel Nautilus air horn & installation kit | Adventurers Workshop |
| Highway Ottomans | Highway Ottoman |
| GSA Gas Tank Conversion Parts (Instructions) | Chicago BMW |
| Black/Silver Throttle Lock | eBay |
| BRAKE LED Tail Light | Santa Cruz BMW |
| Helmet Lock | Santa Cruz BMW |
| Magnetic Drain Plug | Santa Cruz BMW |
| Front Fender Extender | eBay |
| Other Modifications | |
| Canisterectomy | |
| Gas Cap Reversed |
I also purchased some specialty equipment for maintenance such as a BMW maintenance CD ROM, a JVB Maintenance DVD, an oil filter wrench, a GS-911 code reader, a Twinmax carb syncronizer, XL peg mounts for my Big Blue Lift, and miscellaneous metric tools I didn’t already have.
The GS was on my Big Blue lift for almost six weeks. I wasn’t working on it all that time. I primarily worked just the weekends. I ordered parts for the GSA gas tank conversion a little while before I started the maintenance and modification work. I did my 18k service and then installed the Autocom Active Plus, TPS 15, the seat heater switch and relay, and the Stebel horn. Then I did the canisterectomy and installed the McCruise cruise control. I completed all this over about three weekends. No speed records broken here but some of this was uncharted territory for me.
Then I waited for the GSA gas tank conversion parts
. Some of the parts had to come from Germany so that slowed things down. I went ahead and did the Gas Cap Reversal Modification seeing as how I needed to take it all apart to do the tank conversion anyway. The parts finally came in a couple of weeks later. I finished up with the gas tank conversion last weekend.
All of this went pretty smoothly with the exception of the GSA gas tank. I consider myself an average backyard mechanic. I wouldn’t recommend installing the cruise control or doing the GSA tank modification if you are mechanically disadvantaged.
You need to do a couple of electrical splices and break into a front brake line for the cruise control installation. So you need to be handy with cutting and soldering wires and also be set up to do the power assisted ABS brake bleed. But the instructions are very good so if you are comfortable in doing your own scheduled maintenance and a soldering iron doesn’t give you nightmares it is not that challenging of a project.
The instructions for the GSA tank conversion lack some of the finer details and there were a couple of things I found were incorrect. Not that I am complaining any because I am thankful that the author pioneered the way and then posted instructions on how he did it. This is something I would probably not risk doing without some guidance and his efforts provided it.
It’s a good thing I have a good hardware store near home
. I think I made seven or eight trips to complete this project. Part of the complication was the Hella Micro DE lights that were already installed. They interfered with the installation of the GSA gas tank and the new fairing. I had to fabricate some extension brackets to move the lights forward 2.75” inches. Even then I had to cut notches in the fairing to accommodate the light brackets.
I had a scare after I got the GS back together. I filled the tank with gas and my gas gauge was still reading almost empty. It acted like I was on the final reserve and the miles to empty kept moving towards zero. One day it finally got to zero while I was riding it. I had to park the bike for an appointment and when I came out and started it up the gas gauge read full. I don’t know if the electronics were confused
, the float just came unstuck or what. It seems to be working correctly now. At least I didn’t need to pull everything apart to fix it
.
I will likely add any other modifications as they are implemented to the table on this page rather then start another list somewhere else.
JD
Filed under Diary by
Being an engineer by trade I tend to over analyze things. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing but it does consume more than a little time
. I also like having good tools to do my planning and I use a number of different software tools to plan my trips. Of course for mapping and routing there are plenty of options. One of the better free online mapping tools I have found is AAA Triptik. This is a decent trip planner and has an excellent POI data base including the best gas station information I have found in any mapping software. You can save your routes and create PDF maps and driving directions. You can even book accommodations right from Triptik. While this isn’t the only mapping tool I use it is becoming one of my favorites and the price is certainly right.
The good thing about riding in the MTF sponsored ride is that the route is already figured out. That is the start, finish and any corner waypoints that are required for the route are already determined. It is still up to the rider to equip and prepare their motorcycle. The rider can also plan, or not plan, their strategy for fuel stops, meals and rest stops, if any. Mapping tools like Triptik are important for planning the trip and developing the fine details for an endurance ride like a the Saddle Sore 1000.
Here is a Google Map of the route and waypoints I used for the MTF SS1000. I didn’t repeat the return waypoints on the map because they are the same as the outbound waypoints.
JD’s MTF SS1000 Waypoints
I think some people new to endurance riding will just show up and ride as if it just is a typical day trip. This will probably work, most of the time, for an out and back run on the slabs like this was. From what I have read, on more challenging rides no plan is pretty much a plan for failure. Of course a well maintained and equipped motorcycle is also important.
The following table shows the waypoints, mileage and fuel data for my ride.
|
GPS |
Leg |
Gal |
Leg |
Avg |
$/Gal |
$ |
Tot/$ |
Location |
| 0 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | Issaquah,WA |
| 158 | 158 | 3.63 | 43.5 | 43.5 | $3.48 | $12.64 | $12.64 | Moses Lake, WA |
| 333 | 175 | 4.28 | 40.9 | 42.1 | $3.36 | $14.36 | $27.00 | Kellogg, ID |
| 510 | 177 | 4.36 | 40.6 | 41.6 | $3.50 | $15.24 | $42.24 | Drummond, MT |
| 686 | 176 | 4.44 | 39.6 | 41.1 | $3.36 | $14.92 | $57.16 | Kellogg, ID |
| 857 | 171 | 4.04 | 42.3 | 41.3 | $3.48 | $14.07 | $71.23 | Moses Lake, WA |
| 1020 | 163 | 4.24 | 38.5 | 40.8 | $3.47 | $14.71 | $85.93 | Issaquah,WA |
| - | 1020 | 25.0 | Total | - | $3.44 | Avg | - |
As this table might indicate, I also use a spreadsheet as a planning tool. I developed the spreadsheet initially with my best guess estimates and then populated it with the actual ride data as is shown here. There is nothing of real significance in this part of the data other than the distances for each leg. The mileage range for my K1200LT is, worst case, roughly 200 miles. With the turn around waypoint at 510 miles, Drummond, MT, I needed to make at least two intermediate gas stops. Because of this I tried to divide it up so the leg distances are all roughly the same. Gas station availability was the only real variable and I had the stops planned down to the actual station I would use. The start time for the run was determined by the ride organizers so that was one variable outside of my control. If there were large cities on the route the start time might be adjusted to reduce travel delays when traveling through them. Spokane, WA and Missoula, MT are the only cities of any size on this route. Missoula is seldom a problem so Spokane is the only potential bottle neck. If I was planning my own route, road construction would be another factor to consider
The following table shows how I performed during the ride.
|
Time |
Time |
Stop |
Leg |
Leg |
Total |
Avg |
Drive |
Drive |
Drive |
Location |
| - | 5:03 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | Issaquah, WA |
| 7:12 | 7:26 | 14 | 2.38 | 66.3 | 2.38 | 66.29 | 2.15 | 73.49 | 73.49 | Mosses Lake, WA |
| 9:52 | 10:07 | 15 | 2.68 | 65.3 | 5.07 | 65.72 | 2.43 | 71.92 | 72.65 | Kellogg, ID |
| 12:30 | 12:57 | 27 | 2.83 | 62.5 | 7.90 | 64.56 | 2.38 | 74.27 | 73.21 | Drummond, MT |
| 15:22 | 15:30 | 8 | 2.55 | 69.0 | 10.45 | 65.65 | 2.42 | 72.83 | 73.11 | Kellogg, ID |
| 18:07 | 18:25 | 18 | 2.92 | 58.6 | 13.37 | 64.11 | 2.62 | 65.35 | 71.42 | Mosses Lake, WA |
| 20:39 | 20:40 | 1 | 2.25 | 72.4 | 15.62 | 65.31 | 2.23 | 72.99 | 71.66 | Issaquah, WA |
| - | - | - | 2:36 | Avg | 15:37 | Total | - | - | - |
All the times are shown in a single time zone. I actually started in the Pacific time zone and crossed into the Mountain time zone while I was in Montana. The IBA requires that the time of each stop is recorded. This is so they can verify that you were not driving at excessive speeds and to aid in verifying your route. The MTF had us record both our in and out time at each stop. I think they did this to give us a good way to see where we could improve or how we failed to complete the ride in the 24 hour time limit. I probably would have done this anyway, I am an engineer after all
, but thumbs up
to the MTF for starting us out with a good documentation plan.
As I said in my previous post, I was trying to complete this SS1000 at a BBG1500 pace. That meant completing the 1000 miles in 16 hours or less. While I did accomplish this I had the data to figure out how I could improve my performance. Improvement was needed to create a better time buffer to overcome any unplanned events on a BBG1500 attempt. There is also that extra 500 miles to consider. I would be getting more fatigued on the longer ride so my performance could degrade.
It is a simple matter to determine what your average speed must be to complete a specific distance in a given period. You just divide the total miles by the time allowed to ride it. For this ride 1020/24 = 42.5 mph. Now this doesn’t sound very fast and it isn’t. The problem is the time includes not only the time you are moving but the time you are not. My spreadsheet breaks this down for each leg of my ride. The "Leg Hr." and "Leg MPH" columns are calculated using the total time for the leg, which is driving time plus the stop time. The "Drive Hr." and "Drive MPH" columns are calculated for just the time I was actually moving. You can see how little stop time it takes to beat up your average speed.
So to complete this ride in 16 hours the average speed would be 1020/16 = 63.75 mph. Now this certainly looks a little more challenging and my average leg speeds on this SS1000 were not that much above this . My driving speeds are about as good as can be expected. That leaves reducing the amount of time I am not moving as the only place I can really get much improvement.
Analyzing where the time was going during my stops is the next step. I bought a sandwich for lunch at Drummond and ate it there. That was a about half of that 27 minute stop. That is simple enough to correct by being self sufficient for food/hydration and snacking a little at each stop rather than a dedicated meal is also an option. Trips to the bathroom actually contributed to a good portion of the time for stops exceeding 10 minutes. There are solutions to this but I am am not going into the topics of using laxatives the day before the ride or prophylactic catheters in this installment
. Suffice it to say that the ideal plan would be to never get off the motorcycle.
So that leaves one other option to lower the total stop time, reducing the number of times I stop. To do this I would need to extend the mileage range of one of my motorcycles. There are several ways to accomplish this. One of the more frequently used methods is a fuel cell. A variety of companies make them for racing, custom car and motorcycle applications. Fuel Safe, Jaz Products, Sampson Sport Products and Summit Racing Equipment are some of the major sources of fuel cells. There are also custom kit solutions for specific motorcycles from companies like BLM Accessories.
In true engineering fashion I studied my alternatives to death. My real dilemma was that I have two motorcycles that I feel are suitable for endurance riding. A BMW K1200LT and a BMW R1200GS. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Heritage Softail but my aging body just can’t tolerate abuse like it used to. About the only option for the K1200LT is an auxiliary fuel cell. BLM sells a kit fuel cell for about $1000 that sits behind the rider. Some long distance (LD) riders have custom made "tail dragger" fuels cell that mounts low behind the rear wheel. I’m not sure I want to know what they would cost.
Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it, I have other LD riding and touring goals that my R1200GS may be much better suited for. This lead me down the path of researching all the options to increase the fuel capacity of a stock R1200GS gas tank which is 20 liters (5.2 gallons)
. I looked at fuel cells first but mounting one where the passenger seat is would take up a lot of cargo space that I would need for some of those other LD riding ambitions I have. That left some other kind of solution.
I then looked at auxiliary tanks from Touratech and Wunderlich. The Wunderlich "Jararaca 18" and the Touratech 2×8 liter side tanks both looked very nice even though they look quite different from each other. The Wunderlich would definitely alter the visual style of the R1200GS. The Touratech option looks more like the BMW styling. There were two major issues I had with both of them. The first is they have a gas cap for each side tank. This isn’t a problem for LD touring but un-locking, opening, filling and closing them would take addition time. This is a concern for more extreme IBA type rides or rallies. The second issue was the cost, the Wuderlich was $1984.00
and the Touratech was $1427.00
. I could buy a fuel cell kit for about $800-$1000 or roll my own for something less. There was another minor detail with their designs. The fuel gauge on the GS wouldn’t really indicate correctly because the gauge only works for the fuel that is in the stock tank. The side tanks are just fancy jerry cans that feed into the main tank. The way the R1200GS gas gauge works, you probably would just see a full fuel indication until you used up 3/4 of your fuel. Not a major issue but something else to consider. There was also one other issue with the Wunderlich, it would not let me use the Touratech lights I had already installed on my GS.
I came close to ordering the Touratech tanks but then I spotted this roll your own solution. This is a modification that replaces the stock R1200GS 20 liter (5.2 gallons) gas tank with a 33 liter (8.7 gallon) R1200GSA gas tank. I discovered the parts for this conversion cost about $1200 plus shipping. Certainly not cheap but everything would be factory BMW parts, there would be just one gas cap and the gas gauge would read correctly. If I had bought a GSA instead of a GS I wouldn’t be going through this but I got a great buy on a used GS so I would still be ahead on the overall package.
So about a month ago I ordered all the parts from from Chicago BMW. They came in last week and they are sitting in my garage waiting for me to tackle the project. I have to bleed the brake system first. It sounds like blog fodder for another day
.
Filed under Diary by

